Celery Gone Wild!

When I planted 6 small celery plants by mistake last summer, little did I dream what monsters they would become. I have added celery to everything I can think of, made braised celery and celery soup (twice), and still there’s more. It’s now taller than I am (but in raised beds). Last weekend I got rid of most of my winter vegetables to plant summer ones: 5 new tomatoes, 2 squash, a small mixed pot of green and yellow beans, a Japanese eggplant, and three basil plants. I’m still looking for lemon cucumber but am skipping peppers this year.

Yesterday, we finally had to take the celery out, so that the squash plants and other things in the bed would have some room to grow. We cut off a couple of bunches and tossed the rest—much of it had gone to flower, and some of the stalks were 3-4 inches thick.

Julia Child’s recipe for celery soup (Volume II) couldn’t be simpler, and it doesn’t even call for heavy cream. You simply sauté about 1½ cups of onions or leeks with 3 cups of celery stalks (I added some leaves, too) until tender but not browned, and then cook for 30 minutes with 4 cups of chicken or vegetable stock (I made my own, with more celery!) and 1/3 cup of rice.

While the vegetables are cooking, cook 1 large or 2 medium chopped (and peeled) baking potatoes in 2 cups of salted water. Drain the cooking water into the leeks and celery, then mash the potatoes with one cup of milk (I tend to avoid the food processor with potatoes). Purée the leek and celery mixture using either a blender or food processor, then add to potato mixture with about a cup more milk—or more if needed. Serve with chopped tarragon or parsley and croutons, if desired. The soup is great cold—but it will thicken up, so you will need to add more milk—or buttermilk!